May 15, 21:00hrs (NPT) Saying good-by to a Russian Mountaineering legend
Our prayers go out to Alexi Bolotov's family today, Alexi died at the base of a potential new route. He had apparently taken a helicopter over to an area as a reconnaissance. When the pilot went back to get him he was found dead on the glacier. He wasn't actually climbing so they don't know if it was rock fall or what happened. Other reports said something about a severed rope but facts are all unclear at this time.
Both Denis and Alexi had been visiting Peak Freaks camp, known to both Tim and Marty quiet well. Marty had enjoyed several climbs with Alexi over the years so it's a sad sad day for many climbers and friends of Alexi Bolotov. Tim reiterates that he died doing what he loves. Rest in peace Alexi.
For more information on the Alexi and Denis's plans this year ExploresWeb some good information from them. http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21381 Photo: Alexi Bolotov
PEAK FREAKS- We are still on plan, we've got information that there are quite a few heading up to the summit tonight May (15) and another wave at Camp 3 positioning themselves to do a summit push the next night (May 16). We are in a very good position with the lightest of winds coming for our days of choice (May 18) summit (May 19).
We've been watching this cyclonic ball doing it's thing in the Bay of Bengal. With the right mix when it moves up agaisnt India it bounces north and east away from the Himalayas, this sends high winds and then the calm before the real storm happens on Everest, (the window of opportunity) and then the monsoon. We can see it coming now pretty clear so all in all it's a very normal season, a little earlier like the Sherpas said.
Our team moves to Camp 3 tomorrow and all report feeling very strong.
Note- to all the Everest Training-Triple Crown/Autumn trek group members from last year. Murad is getting all your cheers and is overwhelmed with your support.
Lee Den Hond's SPOT Tracker is up now so you can follow her. Click the SPOT link above.
Kevin Farebrother... the Wolverine plan. Kevin as many of you may know will be attempting Everest without oxygen, this being his second time on Everest after his successful summit in record time in 2011 he may be able to pull it off. He said on his way down in 2011 he immediately thought to himself that he'd like to try it without oxygen. It seemed like a something he could do easy enough.
His approach to do Lhotse first changed as he wanted to time his Everest summit with his teammates and now good friends so he'll be doing Lhotse after Everest. The first plan to do Lhotse first couldn't have happened due high winds at the time he would have had to start.
Because our team is spending 2 nights at the South Col, this would be too much for Kevin, he would lose too much energy hanging out there for two nights without oxygen so he's spending 1 extra night at Camp 2 and will catch up to the team on the night of the 18th, starting his push from Camp 3, the traditional approach but without o's.
After Everest it's in his plan to attempt Lhotse without oxygen but on both climbs he will have oxygen available to him if it becomes a life-threatening situation. Our star Sherpa climber and Sardar Tashi Tunde Sherpa will be with him as he has not yet climbed Lhotse himself and would like to give it a go. They are both stoked... Double summit, no oxygen for Kevin but Tashi will using oxygen for safety and the fact he'll be carrying backup for Kevin as well.
Photo: Kevin Farebrother